![]() I plan to do some testing the next days and I also have an extremely long lens (an old Novoflex 600 mm) which could be part of strange constructions. a distance ring, a zoom lens with a nice (many blades) and very small closing aperture and a lens in reversed position in front of it with aperture wide open. I could also imagine that it is best to have the aperture in the middle of the optical construction we use e.g. If the sensor size is very small the light will hit the sensor with a sharp angle and thus less diffraction at the aperture. Lumix cameras which are great most of the times, use the same effect. ![]() I could also imagine that these macro photos done with e.g. I did not know why this should work - but now I know it. I do a lot of macro work and a couple of days ago I found a video at youtube where a photographer told, that he prefers macro photos with a long focal length and extended DOF as he does not like to do image stacking with short focal length and the time consuming process at the computer, afterwards. Thank you, Erik, for letting us know this fact. That's all you really need to know for using this type of camera. So, set it on "A" mode - about -.66 EV is a good idea to control the brightest parts of the picture and improve the general appearance of your images, and the camera takes totally automatic pictures by changing the shutter speed. Once you become more familiar with photography, you can use different apertures at the long zoom focal lengths where the diffraction effects do not apply. When you zoom out, you will see larger ƒ/ numbers although the actual "hole" remains the same, the changing numbers are just how many times the diameter is divided into the focal length - which is changed by zooming.įorget all you have ever heard about "stopping down for depth of field" - with this extremely short focal length you have extremely deep depth of field (Physics again, sorry). This "wide open" aperture is best for "low light" too - it lets in more light. There is no "downside" to this: the camera will then choose a shutter speed (from 1/2000th second right down to 1 full second). So setting the Aperture to ƒ/3.3 and LEAVING IT THERE will ensure the sharpest image the lens is capable of. This 3mm hole happens to be about ƒ/3.3, and going smaller than that (larger number - yes, its confusing) the blurring effect gets much worse. There is a critical size "hole" for visible light - approximately 3mm (1/8 inch). When light does this, it blurs the image. The waves are coming toward you in this photo: ![]() Here is a picture of water waves passing through an aperture, notice how the wave pattern changes and smooths (blurs) out. All waves do this, including light and water. There is nothing magical about this - but where the "Magic" comes in is that - due to physics again (sorry!) when light passes through a hole, it "scrapes" on the edges. (Divide the size of the opening in millimeters into the focal length in millimeters = the "ƒ/number" value. The aperture can be changed, and the numbers used to keep track of this are the RATIO of focal length to the size of the opening. The 'aperture' is the "hole" the light comes into the camera. The sensor is quite small, therefor the lens must have a very short focal length - usually about 4.3mm (that is approximately 1/3inch). "A" mode is the best for any of the pocket zooms, by any manufacturer. It is very likely that this is, indeed, the case. Thanks for the comment (should have read all the posts earlier!). "Hmm, I wonder if my better pics were taken using A mode.
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